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Post by paulf on Jul 21, 2019 17:17:14 GMT -5
Thanks brownrexx, I should have found it myself. Mark even says about pH: " If you also notice though, the whole range of numbers (meaning pH)for tomatoes does not vary much." The pH does vary more than I remembered and is higher than I figured. I most likely will not be changing my presentations.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2019 19:15:08 GMT -5
I originally grew the Sudduth strain of Brandywine. No idea what I have now, but it is not the same as I grew back 20 years ago---daylight and dark difference. As for time to ripen, here in Arkansas I have plenty of time. I once brush-hogged my tomatoes in July and got a huge fall crop before frost from the regrowth. (But a ton of green tomatoes!) I wrapped many in newspaper, packed them away in a cold corner of the garage, unwrapped them as needed and left them on the kitchen counter to ripen. Lost many of them, but used many too.
Never seen seeds of Apricot offered anywhere. The humorous thing about my predicament this year is that I got some of my plants (Early Girl) from the school vo ag greenhouse. It is a standing joke among gardeners I know here that "You get what you see, but it may not be what you think." By the time the kids and their customers have gone thru the plants a dozen times no one knows what is which. But they are always big, nice-looking plants. I lucked out and got the real thing.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2019 19:21:21 GMT -5
Martin; the good Sudduth Brandywines should have few seeds, small seed cavities and be very meaty with no hard center. My understanding is that black B is an accidental cross, not a true Brandywine. They ARE wrinkled.
The darn things I am growing this year do not show much promise.
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Post by Gianna on Jul 21, 2019 19:29:33 GMT -5
I prefer to grow my tomatoes from seeds every year - then from cuttings the remainder of the year. Then new seeds again the next year to reduce the possibility of transmitting diseases.
You can buy/trade misnamed seeds, but I believe it is less likely to get and grow the wrong variety from seed than greenhouse started ones - as happened one year with purchased plants. The label said 'early girl', but the plants/fruit obviously were not. Big floppy, flavorless red things, and you dont find out until it's too late. Better than no home-grown tomatoes I suppose, but not much.
It's important where you get seeds too. For plants that produce a lot of seeds, like tomatoes and peppers, and if they can be sold, too many sellers on, for example, ebay or Amazon dont care, or figure a customer cant tell the difference. Or simply dont know they are selling the wrong things.
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Post by paquebot on Jul 21, 2019 19:41:22 GMT -5
Martin; the good Sudduth Brandywines should have few seeds, small seed cavities and be very meaty with no hard center. My understanding is that black B is an accidental cross, not a true Brandywine. They ARE wrinkled. The darn things I am growing this year do not show much promise. There are two Black Brandywines, one RL and one PL. Neither did much for the integrity of the family. Craig and I both agreed that one of them was "a bag of seeds" as there wasn't much else going for it. Martin The truth is more important than the facts.
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Post by paquebot on Jul 21, 2019 20:10:50 GMT -5
The pH on the chart also dispelled a lot of claims that old heirloom were always safe to can without adding acid and that it had been bred out of them. They either had high or low pH and never changed. Actually, few ever qualified for being high enough. Chart also dispels claims that yellow and white tomatoes all are low-acid. Not so as color seems to not be a factor in the pH. Each variety seems almost unique regardless the color.
Martin
The truth is more important than the facts.
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Post by paquebot on Jul 21, 2019 22:34:10 GMT -5
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Post by pepperhead212 on Jul 21, 2019 23:01:32 GMT -5
The white and yellow varieties I tried years ago (I finally gave up on them) were among the blandest of all that I tasted. But the orange were some of the best tasting - the KBX was one, and Kellog's regular leaf, along with that Amish Gold Slicer, that I got free a few years ago, and I have to save the seeds for now.
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Post by paquebot on Jul 22, 2019 14:39:55 GMT -5
There are bad tomatoes in every color. More than one were a dead end here as seeds were not saved. Last white one was actually an uncommon white over pink bicolor. Little taste and zero shelf life. The white there was a "white-white" and few of that color can be rated very high. But when you move into "ivory-white" and "creamy white" it's entirely different. If you get a chance to grow White Snowball, a blind taste test may surprise you.
Yellow is in the same boat as white. "Yellow-yellow" such as Lemon Boy would set the color standard. When the color deviates to the many stops between there and orange, the flavor changes and often improves with each. But then, nobody has ever accused Yellow Pear of being bland.
Since we are associating color with taste, what happens when a variety exists in both red and yellow? That blows the generalization out of the water. Winsall exists in both pink and yellow. Fruit is identical in every way except color. I know because the yellow mutant showed up here and only the color changed. The one discussed the most on Garden Web was a yellow version on Wisconsin 55 which had been maintained by a single grower for perhaps 50 years. The only difference in the two is color.
Martin
The truth is more important than the facts.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2019 18:32:54 GMT -5
Yello Pear!!!! I grew those one year, since in OK the "cherry type" tomatoes would bear all summer while the standards would quit in hot weather.
I thought Yellow Pear was the best tasting of the small tomatoes that I'd ever eaten. Have not grown in it ten years as I've not grown the small tomatoes for years.
Oddly enough, Her in N. Arkansas IN JULY we are gettng some nights under 70F. Tomatoes should continue to bear.
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Post by paquebot on Jul 22, 2019 20:42:42 GMT -5
Don't know the Brix of Yellow Pear but I did make a decent wine from them one time. Never found a better-tasting small pear type. It is totally opposite Red Pear. Japanese Yellow Pear is very similar to Yellow Pear but doesn't try to sprawl all over the county. 15' is nothing to that monster.
Martin
The truth is more important than the facts.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2019 21:19:31 GMT -5
And they rooted everywhere they could find moist ground. We got an awfully lot of little pear tomatoes off those three or four vines that year---and in my opinion the best tasting small tomato.
The fact is that two old people can use only so many tomatoes, so my twenty-odd plants are overkill...Perhaps next year I will plant two of each of several varieties.
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Post by brownrexx on Jul 23, 2019 8:25:38 GMT -5
paquebot, I received my Black cherry seeds from a gardener on another forum that I no longer visit. Do you think that they are OP?
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Post by paquebot on Jul 23, 2019 12:48:26 GMT -5
brownrexx,all Black Cherry would be OP since it never officially existed as a hybrid. Whatever you got depends upon where your source got them. If one were into tomatoes when they came out, seems that every company suddenly had them. Some might wonder how they could have obtained them so quickly. One wasn't supposed to question that if a company or owner happened to be friends with a certain clique. What we did establish was that there was a wide variety of colors. I was no longer involved in that as I knew that what Fedco got from Pat Yurell was right. One can only duel with so many windmills. Continuing the red vs. yellow taste, what happens if a yellow variety produces red fruit? My previous two examples were red or pink mutating to yellow. Mirabell was a yellow cherry until it met me. It was the only known somatic mutation that I've seen. One branch produced red fruit. Only the color changed, not the taste. Martin The truth is more important than the facts.
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Post by hairymooseknuckles on Jul 23, 2019 14:46:01 GMT -5
My Black Cherries came from Carol Moss aka Gold Pearl on the OLD Rodale forum. She gave me a bunch of seeds when we went to visit her in North Texas.
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Post by brownrexx on Jul 23, 2019 17:19:42 GMT -5
Thanks paquebot, I think that I will save seeds from my Black Cherry.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 23, 2019 18:23:15 GMT -5
Well, fellows; my Brandywines are a disaster this year. I knew already that they were not very productive, but this afternoon I went out to pick what looked like a half dozen ripe tomatoes.
Four were bad; already rotten on one side or in the 'split" where they were ribbed. Two usable ones are so ribbed and gnarly that it will take a surgeon's care to get good tomato out of them. One is reasonably round, mildly split and half the size of the others. I will not buy seed from that outfit again.
Now I have to try to find some genuine Sudduth Brandywine seed.
On the bright side, the Early Girls are going wild and my Better Boys are coming right along. Sent a friend home with a big sack of tomatoes and still have a basketful to pick tomorrow.
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Post by paquebot on Jul 23, 2019 20:42:00 GMT -5
Thanks paquebot , I think that I will save seeds from my Black Cherry. Remember that I'm just the messenger. One can look at the various descriptions noted by Tatiana. Several are correct from what I remember. I would even question the photo that she chose to represent the variety. One thing not mentioned are the tiny seeds. If the seeds are "normal" size, it ain't the original. tatianastomatobase.com/wiki/Black_Cherry Martin The truth is more important than the facts.
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Post by bestofour on Jul 25, 2019 21:08:37 GMT -5
Don't stink bugs cause hard, white spots inside tomatoes?
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Post by paquebot on Jul 25, 2019 22:50:20 GMT -5
Don't stink bugs cause hard, white spots inside tomatoes? Yes, they will be just under the skin and not always noticeable other than a small spot. Stink bugs just stick their snouts into the fruit much like a mosquito. Martin The truth is more important than the facts.
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Post by Laura_in_FL on Jul 26, 2019 8:57:31 GMT -5
Yes, the external spots are often small and barely noticeable on the outside. Inside, the patch of damaged flesh can be significantly larger. Heavy stinkbug feeding can cause large areas of hard, white flesh inside, and leave larger discolored areas on the skin as well. If the damage is light and/or confined to small areas you can cut it out and use the rest of the tomato. When the damage is heavy, the there is so much flesh damage that the tomatoes can become unusable, especially if they are smaller tomatoes. The punctures in the skin from stinkbug feeding also provide easy entry into the fruit for all sorts of rots. So even minor stinkbug feeding can cause the fruit to rot if there is high disease pressure. Here are a couple of images of stink bug damage from the web: Inside damage: If you look closely at the skin of the tomato above the peeled-back area, you can see tiny dots - these are other stinkbug feeding sites. If you look closely, you can see that the flesh underneath those spots is also pale. Outside:
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