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Post by paulf on Mar 7, 2024 11:59:26 GMT -5
How do you water your seedlings…from the bottom up by adding water to the tray or by watering the top of the soilless mix. How is the watering applied? Watering can, hose connected to a faucet or pressure sprayer or some other method?
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Post by spike on Mar 7, 2024 14:10:21 GMT -5
My Old Uncle used to hold the 6 packs in a bucket of water. I never had much luck with that. I have a small watering can and just water from the top. My grow light to start seeds is on top of the fridge so it is easiest for me that way.
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Post by octave1 on Mar 7, 2024 14:43:11 GMT -5
I use a small watering can with a long, slightly curved spout. I collect water from our outside rain barrel, keep it inside the house until it warms up to room temperature, and very gently water from the top. Since grow lights can quickly dry up the very top of the soil, I am not concerned about rot and fungal diseases, and so far I haven't had any problems.
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Post by Laura_in_FL on Mar 8, 2024 12:12:33 GMT -5
I water from the bottom. They are pricey, but I really like these seed starting systems: www.burpee.com/32-xl-cell-self-watering-ultimate-growing-system The real key to it is the wicking mats - they keep a consistent moisture level, and you really can go a week or so without watering. At least until the seedlings get big and start taking up a lot of water, at which point you'll have to water more often. But your seedlings are probably close to needing to be potted up or planted out by then. Fertilizing is easy: mix the water-soluble fertilizer of your choice with the water and pour it into the bottom tray for the seedlings to wick up as needed. The cells are big enough to grow seedlings to several inches tall. If you like to set out smaller tomato seedlings, they can go straight from this system into the garden. If you want bigger tomato seedlings before transplanting, you still only have to transplant once. If you only have the system exposed to sunlight for long enough to harden off your seedlings you can re-use it many times. When the cells wear out, the tray, risers, and wicking mat can still be re-used with other seedling cells. You just have to use cells that have large enough drainage holes for the potting/seed starting mix to make good contact with the wicking mat. (The ones with a large central drainage hole work the best.) For longevity, be sure to store it inside or at least in complete shade when not in use. Also, when setting it up, be sure to put the black side of the wicking mat UP. The black side prevents the roots from growing down into the mat. If you use it with the white side up, you'll tear the mat to pieces trying to get the roots out, or have to cut off lots of roots from your seedlings. However, The pellets that come with the system are the pits; I just use peat-based potting soil/seed starting mix. Also, I don't use the plastic covers; they aren't necessary to keep the soil moist as long as you keep water in the bottom tray and use a peat-based potting/seed starting mix. And in my experience the plastic covers just promote mold.
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Post by pepperhead212 on Mar 8, 2024 21:59:28 GMT -5
I just water my trays from the bottom, overwatering them slightly, then in an hour or so, when it has wicked to the surface, I tilt them, then use a large baster to empty the water out of a corner, and wait until the surface is drying out (I sort of judge by the weight of the trays), then water again. The fertilizer I use is a very small amount of the hydroponics fertilizer I use for greens and herbs - about 1/8 tsp/gallon of water, plus the worm castings in the starting mix I make.
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Post by september on Mar 9, 2024 12:41:42 GMT -5
While waiting for germination, and while sprouts are still small and frail, I water from above with a tablespoon from a cup, or small dipper from an ice cream bucket of water. The outer edges of the flats and top of the soil will dry out faster (especially once fans are used) so I water where it is needed. Later on, when the seedlings are sturdy and transplanted into individual cups, I may sometimes bottom water to save time, pouring off any extra water after they sit in the water for a while. I still prefer watering from above however, just easier to adjust fertilizer needs for individual seedlings and it just feels more natural to me - rain falls from above, eh? I do not obsess about not wetting the leaves and have never had damping off of tomato or pepper seedlings. I check water needs of the seedlings visually, by feel of the soil and by weight of the cell packs or pots. Some areas of the tray always seem to dry out faster, whether from fans or lights or quality of soil mix. I don't want to encourage too much sogginess by bottom watering them all equally.
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Post by rdback on Mar 10, 2024 14:13:44 GMT -5
I just water my trays from the bottom, overwatering them slightly, then in an hour or so, when it has wicked to the surface, I tilt them, then use a large baster to empty the water out of a corner, and wait until the surface is drying out (I sort of judge by the weight of the trays), then water again. The fertilizer I use is a very small amount of the hydroponics fertilizer I use for greens and herbs - about 1/8 tsp/gallon of water, plus the worm castings in the starting mix I make.
^__This__^
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