Durgan
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Post by Durgan on Oct 31, 2011 9:23:15 GMT -5
www.durgan.org/URL/?QHBIN 21 August 2009 How a Potato Plant Grows There is a great deal of information on the Internet about growing potatoes in tires, boxes and indicating that large quantities of new tubers can be produced with high vertical hilling. The view propagated is that potatoes grow from branches all along the main stalk. This is not true, as the pictures indicate. New tubers are formed around the seed potato and always slightly above it. My potato growing test box was opened today. The pictures speak for themselves. Clearly there is no advantage in carrying out excessive hilling when growing potatoes. The purpose of hilling is to insure the tubers are covered, since light affects potatoes producing a green appearance, which is an indication of solanine, which is harmful if ingested in large quantities.. For comparison one Pontiac Red was dug in the same row, which was almost identical to the test box potato in appearance.
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Post by paquebot on Oct 31, 2011 11:43:41 GMT -5
According to your experiment, any potato which forms a foot away from the plant's stem can not exist naturally and obviously must have been produced by aliens or some power which is not scientifically explainable.
Martin
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Durgan
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Post by Durgan on Oct 31, 2011 13:07:45 GMT -5
According to your experiment, any potato which forms a foot away from the plant's stem can not exist naturally and obviously must have been produced by aliens or some power which is not scientifically explainable. Martin Maybe you should revisit the photos. The essence is that potatoes don't grow from shoot along along the stem. How you arrived at your statement is beyond me. But to clarify new tubers usually grow within about a foot diameter of the seed potato, and usually just above within about six inches.
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littleminnie
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Post by littleminnie on Oct 31, 2011 19:15:46 GMT -5
Looks like an archeological dig. Did you wear a pith helmet and use a brush? LOL
I need more explanation of how a seed potato grows into the plant. I used to save my own seeds and they would get long sprouts by planting time and someone told me these were not good. They would have a little tiny leaf just sticking out of the soil level at planting time.
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Durgan
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Post by Durgan on Oct 31, 2011 19:51:43 GMT -5
Looks like an archeological dig. Did you wear a pith helmet and use a brush? LOL I need more explanation of how a seed potato grows into the plant. I used to save my own seeds and they would get long sprouts by planting time and someone told me these were not good. They would have a little tiny leaf just sticking out of the soil level at planting time. The general consensus is to break off any spouts growing from the seed potato at planting time. I am referring to the spouts that form when the potato is in storage. These spouts are not green in colour. That said. You can chit (chitting) your potatoes before planting. This means putting the potato in an egg carton; for example, and placing in bright sunlight. Green shoots will form in a month to six weeks. This gives the potatoes a good head start, when planting normally. Spray with water mist to limit shrivelling. You can also cut the seed potato if large enough, and insure two eyes are in each segment. Let the potato dry the wound, then plant. You need only hill enough probably twice, during the season to keep new tubers from being pushed up and into the light. Potatoes must be kept in the dark to prevent the production of solanine, which is indicated by green colouring, since it is harmful if ingested. The eyes of old potatoes also have solanine, and should be gouged out before cooking.
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Post by paquebot on Oct 31, 2011 21:22:39 GMT -5
Maybe you should revisit the photos. The essence is that potatoes don't grow from shoot along along the stem. How you arrived at your statement is beyond me. But to clarify new tubers usually grow within about a foot diameter of the seed potato, and usually just above within about six inches. Yes, your clarification does allow for tubers to be formed away from the stem rather than very close to the seed piece. I also grow potatoes and planted over 240 hills representing 10 varieties this year. The tubers were found anywhere from close to the surface to just at or above the seed piece. Fingerlings especially formed at a number of levels. Stolons on all 10 varieties formed within the desired 6" of soil. All 10 varieties also formed stolons at various levels from the seed piece to the surface. Of the 9 large varieties, Kennebecs wandered the furtherest and some tubers were found up to a foot away from the stems. Some fingerlings were also found a foot away. My plants behave normally for various reasons. One is that they are not allowed to have any sprouts longer than an inch. Then they are planted 6" to 8" deep. That way, they are able to produce stolons at various levels on the elongated underground portion of their stems. They only need hilling once and then only to assure that the uppermost tubers are covered. Martin
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littleminnie
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Post by littleminnie on Nov 5, 2011 12:54:03 GMT -5
I don't understand why the longer sprouts are bad. Why break them off to make new sprouts? (not that I save my own anymore)
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Durgan
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Post by Durgan on Nov 5, 2011 15:41:45 GMT -5
I don't understand why the longer sprouts are bad. Why break them off to make new sprouts? (not that I save my own anymore) I suspect the not green sprouts are a bit sick. I have never planted any with stored potatoes with the anaemic sprouts, so I am quoting from something I read year's ago. Actually I am very careful with my seed potatoes. I had the Irish blight three years ago, when it rained almost every day all Summer. But years ago we always planted from our stored stock, and often cut the potatoes into smaller pieces. I also have used store bought potatoes with success. That said, I only plant slightly less than a hundred, usually 25 of four different varieties. Sometimes I Chit, just for something to do. Google Chitting Potatoes. The thing about potatoes, anybody can grow them, since they will produce some tubers regardless. I am always trying for maximum weight per plant also large size.
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grunt
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Post by grunt on Nov 5, 2011 17:25:07 GMT -5
It is a little difficult to put the long sprouts in the ground without damaging them. I usually don't break off any of the longer ones, unless they are damaged or extremely spindly. I can't say that I have noticed any particular difference in the end product of long, short or no sprout growing, but I haven't particularly been looking for it.
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Post by horsea on Nov 5, 2011 18:52:51 GMT -5
I'm ignorant about the best way to grow potatoes, but I just do the best I can. As you say, anyone can grow potatoes no matter what. In any case, can someone answer this simply:
What is the one best trick to a huge crop of potatoes? Other than good drainage; good spacing; and reasonably fertilized slightly acidic soil? I am also assuming reasonable weather, proper planting time and good quality seed. Tk. you in advance for your good advice.
We had mostly good weather this year, my soil is nice, drainage is good, etc. etc. But 90% of the potatoes were small.
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grunt
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Post by grunt on Nov 5, 2011 21:28:25 GMT -5
If you had small potatoes, but large tops, likely too much nitrogen.
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Post by paquebot on Nov 5, 2011 23:00:35 GMT -5
I suspect the not green sprouts are a bit sick. I have never planted any with stored potatoes with the anaemic sprouts, so I am quoting from something I read year's ago. Colorless sprouts are from lack of chlorophyll which in turn is due to lack of light. Same thing with a growing potato plant. Both the underground portion of the stem and the stolons lack any green coloration. Martin
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Post by horsea on Nov 6, 2011 17:11:48 GMT -5
Thanks for your input, Grunt. I wonder how much nitrogen is too much, mind you.
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Post by paquebot on Nov 6, 2011 22:47:01 GMT -5
Thanks for your input, Grunt. I wonder how much nitrogen is too much, mind you. Doesn't take much nitrogen to be too much. In fact, ordinary compost would usually be too high. Fertilizer should be about a 1-4-4 ratio. In farming country, you might find that in 6-24-24. How much to actually use would depend upon what a soil test would call for. Martin
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Post by horsea on Nov 7, 2011 23:05:04 GMT -5
Many thanks, Paquebot. You know, this is all news to me. It never occurred to me that potatoes were a low-nitrogen crop.
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