Deleted
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Joined: January 1970
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Post by Deleted on Jul 29, 2017 15:57:56 GMT -5
I need some help. I've grown summer and winter squash for years - mostly so squash bugs can decimate my plants just as they're getting productive. I've tried hand picking, squishing, dish soap, spinosad, tilling the ground weekly to kill the grubs, I've planted early and I've planted really late. I've covered the plants until they flower and I've tried raised beds and straw bales. For those of you that grow zucchini/pumpkins and have to give it away by sneaking it into people's cars or onto their front porches while they're not looking - I want to be you next year.Please share ideas so I can be the squash queen next year.
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Post by spike on Jul 29, 2017 17:32:17 GMT -5
Where are you located? That might help us try to help you. I live in Ohio and it is currently open season on zucchini!!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 29, 2017 18:59:49 GMT -5
good point. I'm in SW Ohio and you're 100% right about it being open season on squash of all kinds.
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Post by daylilydude on Aug 1, 2017 7:00:39 GMT -5
@mzgarden, I'm not sure but I have been reading up on situations like yours and keep hearing about diatomaceous earth food grade but haven't tried it yet, but it may be something to look into?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 2, 2017 5:26:24 GMT -5
Thanks. Someone else has suggested I try to time planting to avoid the life cycle. So if the bugs come out of hibernation mid-July, I should direct seed early August. I have planted what I thought was late, but that's a lot later in the season than I've tried. I might try to hunt around here for some commercial pumpkin fields and see when they're planting.
All suggestions gratefully accepted.
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reubent
Pro Member
Posts: 389
Joined: May 2011
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Post by reubent on Aug 3, 2017 20:46:42 GMT -5
In general the higher the plant brix the less the bugs like it. up to where the bugs just aren't interested. But in the case of certain kinds of plants, the higher the brix the faster they grow and the bigger everything gets. It can actually be overwhelming if you have very many plants to keep up with. In full production I was picking my summer squash every 2 days and even then some was getting too large. If I really pushed the fertility I would have had to pick all of it every day. The ideal mineral levels by soluble test (morgan extract method testing) is 3000 lb calcium, 400 lb phosphate, 200 lb potassium, 80 lb nitrogen, and plenty of trace minerals. I'm in TN and get pretty good results using the local high calcium low magnesium lime, (dolomite has too much magnesium for the soil which will drive the nitrogen off and have a hard time growing things) soft rock phosphate, (which is 30% calcium, 21% phosphate and lots of nice trace minerals) and a chemical nitrogen, usually calcium nitrate to get things going and ammonia sulfate added when the fruits start setting. This year I'm adding AZOMITE from Utah for extra trace minerals. And of course plenty of carbon/compost. It all works so much better with lots of carbon to stimulate soil microbial life, feed fungal activity, all of which digest soil nutrients and feed plant roots. The closer into balance the minerals get, along with adequate carbon, the higher the plant brix will go and the less the bugs like them.
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