|
Post by daylilydude on Sept 25, 2017 3:53:34 GMT -5
Spacing of vegetables... Do you have a certain distance that you use for spacing of each one?
|
|
|
Post by spike on Sept 25, 2017 8:56:36 GMT -5
My rows are 2 feet apart. Tomatoes get a minimum of a 4 foot square.
|
|
|
Post by paulf on Sept 25, 2017 9:13:28 GMT -5
Tomatoes on a grid pattern four to five feet apart each direction, peppers on a grid two feet apart each direction and rows 2 feet apart. Vines as far from each other as possible in the space left.
|
|
|
Post by meandtk on Sept 25, 2017 9:42:30 GMT -5
I like 22-24" between rows, because my tiller is 20", and I'd rather lightly till the middles than to hoe.
|
|
|
Post by ladymarmalade on Sept 25, 2017 10:01:50 GMT -5
I use the Square Foot Gardening method for a lot of my veggies and a significant portion of my garden.
Tomatoes do not get the SFG spacing as 1 per foot is not quite enough space. Peppers, on the other hand, seem to LIKE having a buddy, so they are planted in pairs.
|
|
|
Post by Laura_in_FL on Sept 25, 2017 10:22:52 GMT -5
My setup is different, since I don't have an in-ground row garden at all. In my raised beds, I grow mostly smaller veggies (carrots, lettuce and smaller greens, radishes, bush beans, garlic, herbs, etc.) and often okra in the hottest months. Plus I have a trellis along the north side of each bed for vining crops (pole beans, cucumbers, peas, etc.). For the smaller veggies I mostly use the spacings recommended for square foot gardening. Here's a cheat sheet for those spacings: www.arcadia-farms.net/square-foot-gardening-plant-spacing/ But, some things I space out a little more because they are too crowded at these spacings, in my experience. Garlic, for example, needs at least 6"-8" in every direction or bulb size suffers. Lettuce at 4/SF works only for some of the narrow/tall varieties or if you're doing a cut and come again harvest method with leaf lettuces. To get full size heads with the wider/rounder head lettuces, I can plant at 4/SF but will have to harvest half of them as small plants to give the rest room to reach full size. Bush beans at 9/SF are way too crowded, too. For the more vigorous plants, they are better at more like 2/SF (planted on diagonals), and maybe 4/SF for the smaller varieties. The rest of my garden is in Earthboxes and some homemade 5 gallon bucket SIPs. The Earthbox website has recommended spacing for different plants in the EB: earthbox.com/planting-guides Generally these work, but here again I think some of them are too crowded. For example, I only put 4 cauliflower, broccoli, or large greens (e.g. collards) per box (the planting guide suggests 6). Their spacings for lettuce and spinach are good for cut and come again or baby heads, but if you plant at that spacing and harvest every other plant at baby size there would be room to let the remaining ones get to full size. On the other hand, if you have a big enough trellis (mine are 6' tall and extend about 18" past each end of the box), you can plant more of the vining crops than they recommend. I actually put the trellis along one side of the box, plant vining crops there, and then plant chard, lettuce, kohlrabi, or some other short plant on the non-trellised side. So for example the planting guide for cucumbers assumes a trellis running down the middle of the box with four plants on each side of it (8 plants total). I have the trellis on the East side of the box, and plant 8 plants right under it. Along the West side of the box I can then plant 3-4 lettuces, chard, etc. It works great, as long as you watch and make sure the cucumbers all climb the trellis and don't get tangled in your greens. In the buckets, I generally put one large plant, either a tomato or a broccoli/cauliflower/collard, depending on the season. When I use buckets for peppers, I plant two pepper seedlings of the same variety in one hole - peppers seem to like having a "buddy" plant whose roots touch theirs.
|
|