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Post by daylilydude on Nov 24, 2017 5:38:37 GMT -5
It is said that the tilling will actually compact the soil and create a deep hard-pan that is impenetrable... well if you don't till your garden what do you do and why??
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Post by pepperhead212 on Nov 24, 2017 7:24:16 GMT -5
Definitely have to 'til. Too many roots try to develop, from some surrounding trees, plus previous weeds. And much easier to plant garlic in that fluffy soil!
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Post by coppice on Nov 24, 2017 7:41:34 GMT -5
Having both tilled and top mulched as ways to improve soil, it is about six of one and half-dozen of the other.
In confined spaces or raised beds I top mulch. In open areas I till. Please bear in mind I am on Ohioan clay.
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Post by paulf on Nov 24, 2017 9:37:08 GMT -5
My garden gets tilled once in the fall to incorporate the mulch put down in the spring to increase the organics. In the spring it gets raked smooth and planted without another till.
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Post by september on Nov 24, 2017 10:44:33 GMT -5
Can't really use a tiller easily in my raised beds, although I used to have a Mantis that was small enough to use until it got old and quit working. I try to turn over the earth with a garden fork in the fall and do any weeding necessary and cover with a layer of shredded leaves if I have them. Some years I don't have time to get all the beds done before it snows, so I do my weeding and turning over in the spring before planting.
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Post by meandtk on Nov 24, 2017 11:34:57 GMT -5
Yes, I till. I have a very large space that I plant and presently no means of mulching it all. Maybe in the future...
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Post by spike on Nov 24, 2017 13:44:30 GMT -5
My friend comes down with his Massey Ferguson and tills for me at the end of the season and comes back and tills again for me in the spring so I can plant. I have 2 big front tine tillers that just beat me to death now that I have . . . ummmm . . . ripened >,< I do have a small Honda tiller that is like a Mantis but hugely cheaper.
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Post by paquebot on Nov 24, 2017 23:55:18 GMT -5
There's no way to get organic matter into the soil without putting it there. Tilling is the only way and the deeper the better. I've used a Mantis for at least 30 years. That will get the nutrients mixed into the average depth of feeder roots.
Martin
The truth is more important than the facts.
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Post by Gianna on Dec 12, 2017 15:44:54 GMT -5
I live on a hillside of native clay soil in SoCal. Over the years, previous owners had brought in topsoils of various types so they could plant ornamentals. Me too. I now have veg beds all over the property with various patchwork soils. And all of them, I'm intending to convert to no tilling via one way or another. Not that I ever did much tilling anyway - just turning the soil with a garden fork in the spring.
After a few years in some beds, I'm liking very much what I am seeing. The organic matter is higher percent in places after a few years of adding compost to the top, or slightly mixing it in, and more layers of mulch on top. I really can just plant starts into non-worked soil now, and they do well.
I thought about getting a broad fork to just fluff the soil in places, but decided that if I though a bed needed fluffing (not turning), a regular garden fork was good enough.
From what I have read and seen, I think in certain circumstances going no till is very advantageous. But obviously tilling has it's place in many gardens. If you want to till, till. If you want to go no-dig, let nature do the work. One size never fits all.
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Post by brownrexx on Dec 12, 2017 16:22:50 GMT -5
I do what I call "Limited Tilling" which means that I till once a year in the fall and till under all of the mulch from the previous year after removing any tomato plant residue so that I don't till under any potential disease spores.
After tilling I apply a thick layer of straw which will become next season's mulch which I just pull back at planting time.
I do not have raised beds so I get quite a bit of compaction and tilling fluffs up my soil. I also like tilling because it brings insect pupa to the surface where they can either be eaten by birds or it allows them to freeze rather than overwinter in my garden. I have read that tilling reduces the population of tomato hornworms in gardens by more than 90%. I have never had a problem with them but maybe it's because I till in the fall.
However if I did have raised beds then I would probably not till and I would just add compost and mulch to the top. My flower beds are never tilled, they have just had mulch added annually over the years and they have wonderful soil so I can see the results of not tilling an area.
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Post by guruofgardens on Dec 12, 2017 19:57:09 GMT -5
We till in all mulch from the summer plus 8-10 bags of leaves in the fall to help with less compaction of the soil. Our clay soil is getting better, has a large(r) % of organic material when tested, but it is so dry here that we get large cracks in the soil if not tilled.
Our tomato hornworm population has nothing to do with tilling. We get 10-20 every year in both garden soil and potted tomatoes. The moths must love the dryness of the air!
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