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Post by brownrexx on May 7, 2019 9:41:30 GMT -5
Do you put any fertilizers or additives in the hole before you plant your tomato seedlings?
The result of my soil test shows that I already have excess N, P and K so I definitely don't need any fertilizer and it could actually be detrimental but Nitrogen is very volatile and they always recommend adding a nitrogen boost.
In the past I tried adding blood meal and had my plants dug up by critters (probably skunks) overnight.
Yesterday I used some feather meal (12-0-0) in the holes and I left a couple of small piles of feather meal on the surface a few yards away to lure the critters away from my plants in case they came looking for a snack last night.
Yea. This morning the little piles were untouched and the tomato plants were also untouched so I guess that feather meal is not a good snack! It did have a slight smell but I guess that it is not a good smell to skunks.
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Post by paulf on May 7, 2019 9:45:07 GMT -5
I dig a hole, put the plant in and fill back up with the soil removed to create the hole. If it is dry, the plants get watered, if not, that's it. Like brownrexx my soil is in balance already so no extra stuff is needed.
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Post by pepperhead212 on May 8, 2019 10:28:53 GMT -5
I used to, but, like you brownrexx, my soil is from slightly above what it should be, to excessive (only one excessive this time, in the 3 tests I had done, and that was Ca, in the area I grew squash in). N was the only thing called for this time; 2 years ago they recommended some Sul-Po-Mag in the front bed, and that must have helped, as that just called for N. No sense adding fertilizer, when it is all in the soil already. Plus, all those organic compounds in the soil keep breaking down, adding more to the soil. The front bed was 6.5% organic, and that was the low one! The squash area was high, with 8.7%. On that note, while I didn't get the area I planted my asparagus in tested, I may still test it; I'm curious to see what is in that soil, as I have never added anything, including compost, yet, when I tilled the area, the worms were everywhere! Always a good sign.
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Post by brownrexx on May 8, 2019 11:50:49 GMT -5
pepperhead212, Ca is also my highest element so I definitely don't want to add any more. I am going to use my compost on the shrubs in the front yard since I have never fed them anything. I have never tested my asparagus bed either but I usually add compost at least once a year. I probably should test that area before I add any more compost in the Fall.
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Post by paquebot on May 8, 2019 15:33:31 GMT -5
I probably did the ultimate for a few years at our community gardens. Soil was 7 or 8 inches of silt over clay. I would dig a hole the size of a 5-gallon pail. Half of that would be mixed with compost Got super pants plus good overall drainage. At home, there are usually ample nutrients already in the soil but may add a shovel of compost if available.
Martin.
The truth is more important than the facts.
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Post by spike on May 8, 2019 15:46:04 GMT -5
Worm poo! I dig a hole, mix the worm poo in with the dirt, put the plant in the hole and cover with poopy dirt
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Post by Hensaplenty on May 8, 2019 17:08:19 GMT -5
My soil is acidic. This year because my in ground garden is brand new, I added some Tomato Tone, minerals (rock dust, organic powdered egg shells, organic powdered banana peels, epsom salt, and a little sugar). Some of my tomato plants are already two feet high and so far, so good.
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Post by paquebot on May 9, 2019 8:15:16 GMT -5
Worm poo! I dig a hole, mix the worm poo in with the dirt, put the plant in the hole and cover with poopy dirt Problem with worm castings is that the NPK analysis is backward. It is high on nitrogen and low on potassium. For example, Tomato Tone is 3-4-6. Worm castings are 1.0-0.5-0.2. Castings good for a lot of foliage but poor for fruit. At our local farms market, a woman was selling "worm fertilizer" and I reminded her that she could not do that in this state without a guaranteed analysis. Before she argued too long, I reminded her that I used to be manufacturing foreman for Royster Fertilizer Co. Next week, all bags were marked 1-0-0. People often sent castings on another forum and I always mixed it with the Jiffy Mix starter medium. Using it for seedlings was the best use for it. Martin
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Post by brownrexx on May 9, 2019 8:19:23 GMT -5
I add pure feather meal to the hole which is all nitrogen (12-0-0). I think that the seedlings need a boost at this time.
Fruit is about 2 months in the future and there is plenty of P and K already in the soil based on soil test results.
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Post by bluelacedredhead on May 9, 2019 8:31:00 GMT -5
Leaf mold and compost are what I usually added. Sometimes for tomatoes I would add an Epsom Salt solution at planting time.
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Post by spike on May 9, 2019 9:07:36 GMT -5
Worm poo! I dig a hole, mix the worm poo in with the dirt, put the plant in the hole and cover with poopy dirt Problem with worm castings is that the NPK analysis is backward. It is high on nitrogen and low on potassium. For example, Tomato Tone is 3-4-6. Worm castings are 1.0-0.5-0.2. Castings good for a lot of foliage but poor for fruit. At our local farms market, a woman was selling "worm fertilizer" and I reminded her that she could not do that in this state without a guaranteed analysis. Before she argued too long, I reminded her that I used to be manufacturing foreman for Royster Fertilizer Co. Next week, all bags were marked 1-0-0. People often sent castings on another forum and I always mixed it with the Jiffy Mix starter medium. Using it for seedlings was the best use for it. Martin WHOA! I did not know that. Not gonna order more and thank you!
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Post by guruofgardens on Jun 10, 2019 21:24:23 GMT -5
Tomato tone, bone meal for the roots, leaf mold or compost when available.
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