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Shuffle
Jul 16, 2011 6:04:21 GMT -5
Post by coppice on Jul 16, 2011 6:04:21 GMT -5
Trees in pots, be they long term residents, or saplings awaiting a plant-out; need to be moved from time to time. It keeps roots growing out of pots down and lets what ever is the "other" side get a new shot of sun.
Yesterday it was to move paw paw into shade to slow some sunscald on their largish leaves. The two I intend to pant out here won't have finished bed spaces till fall. This should encourage them to bulk up a bit more...
Over the past few weeks I have been at a day camp, so bonsai came with me for a trim and went back to their bench with a new orientation.
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Deleted
Posts: 0
Joined: January 1970
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Shuffle
Jul 16, 2011 7:01:15 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Jul 16, 2011 7:01:15 GMT -5
coppice: What do you think of dwarf fruit trees in pots ,peach & apricot
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Shuffle
Jul 16, 2011 12:24:54 GMT -5
Post by coppice on Jul 16, 2011 12:24:54 GMT -5
Prunus are fairly small footed. I don't know the rootstocks being used for dwarfed trees on prunus. Never studied them.
So, this is where I'll push buyer beware. Not cause I think you can't do a tub-trained peach or plum or cherry (I think you can do this). Rather I'd want to be able find the union-scar. I'd want to know the number of chilling hours the tree(s) you aspire to pot train are. I'd also want a knowledgeable arbortist to talk to, regarding a spray schedule.
Cause if you wanna do this, your going to spray. Even the indigenous funky little beach plum I train as bonsai will if they get enough bulk, become snacks for some pretty lethal bugs.
Hm, I'm going to select for the smallest fruited trees I can find, to keep fruit and tree size relative.
Your gonna wanna eat the fruit of your labors. You will be growing in a 10-15 gallon tub, not a quart of soil as I do.
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Deleted
Posts: 0
Joined: January 1970
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Shuffle
Jul 17, 2011 1:00:46 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Jul 17, 2011 1:00:46 GMT -5
thanks a lot for the information
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